Monday, September 13, 2010

Kiss and Tel Aviv









Yesterday was a day to end all days. I left the house at 8ish and didn't get home until 9:30. I toted enough cold medicine to last me, but I was really wiped out. I was falling asleep in ulpan, and I wanted to take a nap on the couch but it was me on one couch and the ulpan teacher on the other, which warranted an ugly session of small talk. I ended up saying i had to get something to eat and bought an apricot creamsicle at the corner store.
After ulpan, we met at the dog park where Maya (our madricha) had falafel for us. It was surprisingly my first falalfel this time in israel, and it was surprisingly good. We played on the outdoor gym equipment and the playground swings until we had to leave to catch the bus to the radio station. Galgalatz is israel's number one radio station, run by the Israeli army. To me, it looked like a room with a couple of chairs and a bunch of switchboards with a few knobs. Really unimpressive. Some dudes with Ray Bans passed by us and winked and Maya and the other madricha were oohing and ahhing and gasping...apparently they were very famous musicians. Nobody I had heard of.
It was big news when Galgalatz started using MP3s to play their songs versus painstakingly searching for CDs every time they wanted to broadcast music. So...we got to explore the extensive CD and Vinyl collections from years past. They were on wheely shelves that lined walls from ceiling to floor. It was really cool to slip in between two shelves of records...having someone on either side push the shelves to squish me...and just smelling years of old israeli folk music.
We then got a half hour or so to explore Jaffa at dusk. It was incredible to hear the muslim call to prayer which resonated through the city like eerie, hauntingly beautiful church bells. There were a lot of arabs buying burekas and fresh-squeezed juice. I was thirsty and thought I'd seek refreshment at a local juice stand. I ordered a limonana. The vendor squeezed several lemons at once with a machine that looked like a medieval torture instrument, and picked off fresh mint leaves. It was the best limonana i'd ever had.
And then as I sat down on the park bench, the condensation on the cup caused it to slip out of my hands and I spilled it all over myself. A car full of israeli men saw me swearing at the mess that was me, and laughed. Everybody plays the fool...sometimes.
Hands sticky and mouth pouting, I walked with the group to a lecture, chatting with a Brazilian guy on the Rimon music program. We discussed vegetarianism, sitars, his distaste for jewish girls, all in spanish. So many weird people on this trip.
The lecturer was this scrawny jewish british guy who was very well-informed, but a big blabber. We hadn't eaten since 2:30 and it was 8 and the room was air-conditioned and the seats were cushioned and the lecturer's voice was deep and british like a boring BBC special. My eyelids were heavy.
I did learn some about Israeli parliament and current issues. And they gave us crappy pizza afterwards. Israel has TERRIBLE pizza (think ketchup on a tortilla).
I got home, took my medicine, and allowed my subconscious to meander down a lazy river of nyquil which emptied into a sea of dreams.

I awoke the following day, today, rested and refreshed. My roommate sprained her ankle the previous night and stayed in, so I was sort of alone in class. Ulpan was not as boring. I learned how to conjugate infinitives, and we were thrust into the streets of Tel Aviv to practice our conversational hebrew with the Natives. They were very patient and nice. I met an old man who was a chef at a restaurant on Allenby. I asked him "Ma Ha'Matzav?"...what's your state?...and he thought I was asking him his marital status, so he said..."ani nasu"...I am married...and walked off thinking I was a creepy american prostitute or something.
After Ulpan, Anna, Noa, and I walked to Shuk HaCarmel, the Carmel Market. On the way are these really amazing, cheap boutiques. I bought two awesome sports bras, sunglasses, a dress, two unitards, and a shirt all for 150 NIS. The actual market was eye candy. I bought cucumbers, onions, mint, parsley, sesame bread, greek yogurt, apples, a carrot, lemons, and a pepper for under 20 NIS (there are 3.7 sheckles to a dollar, mind you). I love the shuk. And yes, sarah...I got three pairs of your israeli underwear. 15 sheckles more thank my vegetables. I guess I should go back to get more. I wanted to buy some laundry detergent to do the wash, but as I was scoping out the shelves, I tipped over a gallon of fabric softener. I ran out of the shop as quickly as possible, with the store-owner yelling, "Hey, woman! You will pay!"
He didn't actually say the second part of that...but i can imagine that he would have chopped off a finger or something if he'd caught me.
On the way home, I got one of those healthy soft serve yogurts and we took the bus back to the apartment.
I made a kick-ass salad out of my new leafy green treasures. I'm going to go to sleep early again tonight. Laundry can wait (it has been...in a giant ziplock bag shoved under my bed). Tomorrow I think Noa's taking us to the Bezalel craft market after ulpan.

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